Category Archives: Apparel

The Fabled Aran Sweater

Awash with ideas for Halloween costumes, I finally settled for Hemingway. It’s easy (spray-on white beard + pillow under sweater + fishing pole), and fun (goes well with copious amounts of liquor).

Turns out this is actually a Norwegian number donned by Papa, but whatever.

Turns out this is actually a Norwegian number donned by Papa, but whatever.

So, when planning out the attire, I naturally decided on a thick wool knit sweater to compliment the intense chill that will by 10/31 have descended upon Chicago. After a few trips to thrift shops I found the perfect specimen for a 3 dollars US currency: mint vintage Aran sheep’s wool sweater.

I’d always seen the sweaters at goodwill but never really gave them a chance, (my mind must have been clouded by dreams of finally finding an L.L.Bean Norwegian). So it wasn’t until after purchasing this that I even thought to research the history of the Aran sweater – a history that turns out to be richly storied.

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So here goes:

The sweaters owe their title to the Aran Islands, off the coast of Ireland. The sweaters are distinguished by their use of complex and symbolically textured patterns stitched vertically down the front, (usually 4-6 patterns). Because the wool was generally unscoured, the garment retained natural oils from the sheep’s skin, making them water resistant but also very warm. Thus, they were the perfect attire for Irish fishermen in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. (They also provided knitting for the fishermen’s wives).

Aran Islands Fishermen. Unknown Date.

Aran Islands Fishermen. Date Unknown.

Over time, the stitching began to take on a symbolic meanings. For instance, the honeycomb is a symbol of the hard-working bee; the cable, an integral part of the fisherman’s daily life, is said to be a wish for safety and good luck at sea; the diamond is a wish of success, wealth and treasure; and the basket stitch represents the fisherman’s basket, a hope for a plentiful catch.

Additionally, combinations of patterns grew specific to families of prominent Irish fishermen in the area. Legend has it that the reason behind this tradition is that if a fisherman drowned at sea, his body could later be identified on the beach via the stitching of his sweater, despite facial decomposition. While this is generally refuted as a misconception parlayed by J.M. Synge’s 1904 play Riders to the Sea, in which the body of a dead fisherman is identified by the hand-knitted stitches on one of his garments, I still think it’s a fantastic story to accompany a fantastic sweater.

I wish that more garments had stories and legends surrounding them — because the history and philosophy behind the clothing is what makes fashion truly interesting to me.

Mich in an Aran, photo via Black Watch

Mick in an Aran, photo via Black Watch

Steve McQueen killin' it, photo via The Selvedge Yard

Steve McQueen killin' it, photo via The Selvedge Yard

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The End (of the L.L.Bean Norwegian Sweater Hiatus) Is Nigh

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A/W ’10 is here folks. And that means that after nearly 18 years, the L.L.Bean Norwegian Sweater’s exile has come to an end. Prepsters rejoice!

While not yet added to the official L.L.Bean site, orders for the Norwegian sweater are currently being accepted via telephone.

Read my original post on the iconic sweater’s reintroduction here.

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US Military Blue Denim

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Denim is touted as collectible primarily in the sector of the early American laborer – coal miners in particular. But it was adopted widely in the military throughout the 20th century. I really think it’s an unsung aspect of military garb that ought to be recognized.

Here’s some info I found via the internets:

Blue Denim work clothing was adopted as Standard by the Army on 11 June 1919, replacing brown work clothing used before. The top was a jumper style pullover, the trousers had five pockets — two front, two hip, and a watch pocket. In 1933 a one-piece work suit (coveralls) was adopted in blue denim for use by mechanics, drivers, machinists, and others in similar roles. This was in addition to and did not replace the two piece work uniform. These blue denim coveralls were used until replaced by herringbone twill (HBT) one piece coverall in 1938.

The Army Blue Denim Work Uniform of 1940

Blue Denim work uniform 1940

In 1940, after field complaints about pullovers ripped down the front, the jacket style of blue denim work uniform was adopted. It had two large front pockets toward to bottom of the garment and buttoned up the front. It was made to be closed at the collar.

At the same time in 1940, the blue denim trousers were improved by using a style made from the same pattern as the khaki summer uniform trousers, with the front pockets moved to the side. The M-1937 “Daisy Mae” style hat was also provided in blue denim (with white stitching visible) to complete the uniform, as seen in the photo at left, made in 1940. These blue denim garments were used until replaced by the HBT two piece field uniforms in 1941.

Although the replacement was standardized, the blue denim uniforms continued in use for a few more years as supplies were used up. Since the great increases in supplies for World War II came after the HBT uniforms had been adopted, blue denim garments were relatively rare and are not much associated with the Army in World War II.

Blue Denim in the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps

Sailor in blue denim work uniform, August 1942

Prior to World War II the Marine Corps also used blue denim fatigue uniforms, similar to the Army pattern but with a two-piece bib overall and jacket design. They also adopted a one-piece coverall. All USMC garments had “USMC” metal buttons. As with the Army, the USMC blue denim work uniforms were replaced in the early 1940s by sage green HBT or camouflage utility uniforms.

In 1901, Navy regulations authorized the first use of denim jumpers (shirts) and trousers. Regulations were changed in 1914 to allow the dungaree outfit to be worn by both officers and enlisted sailors. Enlisted personnel in the U.S. Navy wore blue denim trousers for work duty throughout World War II, with long or short-sleeved blue cotton chambray shirts. Several shades were used, but the shirt was usually a lighter shade of blue than the trousers, and lighter than the Army or USMC utility uniforms. Most enlisted personnel on board a ship would be dressed in the denim dungarees with the lighter blue shirt, a tee shirt, or no shirt. The trousers were straight-leg, not bell-bottoms. In the photo to the right, taken at Naval Air Base, Corpus Christi, Texas in August 1942, an aircraft mechanic is fueling a Navy plane dressed in the blue denim trousers and short sleeved chambray shirt topped by a swabbie hat.

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All of these government issued pieces made names for themselves during their time and were affectionately sought after by military veterans and denim customers in US Government surplus stores and yard sales.  Many surplus stores sold used garments with the ominous abbreviation “PW” worn by foreign prisoners of war under U.S. authority.  Dungarees in particular became the popular style worn by sailors in the Navy.  The Army called their styles “Denim Work Uniforms for fatigue duty” — needless to say, many an Army potato peeler put his back into his work wearing his denim fatigues.

Some more pics:

This is a US army denim work jacket. WWII era.

US army denim work jacket. WWII era.

Orignal army issue work jacket. It comes complete with the 5 star buttons. WWII era.

Orignal army issue work jacket. It comes complete with the 5 star buttons. WWII era.

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Buzz Rickson repros of the military pants and jacket and a navy jacket, taken from the Lightning Denim Indigo master issue:

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1940s WWII Denim Navy Sailor’s Jacket:

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LIFE Archive:

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Documenting the Untamed West: The Genius of Edward Curtis

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It’s rare when one can regard a photograph and instantly know its creator. It’s even rarer to regard a photograph that sends chills up your spine as it transports you to the scene and time in which it was taken.

The work of Edward Curtis falls into both categories.

The son of a Civil War vet, Curtis was born February 16, 1868 near Whitewater, Wisconsin. He began shooting with a homemade camera, before his family moved to Seattle in 1887 where Curtis started his career. While in Seattle, he photographed the daughter of Chief Sealth, Princess Angeline, and various scenes of the developing Western landscape. In 1906, J.P Morgan commissioned Curtis to shoot what would become the highwater mark of his career, a series on the North American Indian.

I won’t belabor the points of his life much more, as you can just check out his wikipedia entry here, (and I highly recommend doing so, as he led a fascinating life), but the photos below are a few of my favorites from his archive at the Library of Congress, which consists of of more than 2,400 silver-gelatin, first generation photographic prints made from Curtis’s original glass negatives.

Teddy Roosevelt said of Curtis, “In Mr. Curtis we have both an artist and a trained observer, whose work has far more than mere accuracy, because it is truthful. …because of his extraordinary success in making and using his opportunities, has been able to do what no other man ever has done; what, as far as we can see, no other man could do.”

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Plate 38

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First Day of School – The Essentials

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Levi’s 1947 “Big E” 501’s

Navy Jack Purcell’s

Marlboro Reds

Blackberry Curve

Pendleton Wool Hunting Shirt

Vintage Rolex Oyster

Tortoise Moscot Lemtosh’s

Swiss Army Knapsack

Yellow No. 2’s

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SAPE: Congolese Cult of Sartorialism

The “SAPE” (La Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes élégantes) is easily one of the oddest stylistic movements in existence today. Predicated on the elegant Parisian lifestyle that saturated the Congo in the early twentieth century, the sapeurs aim (and succeed) to dress as impeccably as humanly possible. To me, the panoply of haute couture clashing with the indigent physical background is what makes these guys so interesting.

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Photos via ZoneZero.

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Wishlist: Revue Sting 11 Flip-Ups

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James Dean agrees.

Only $139.

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The Mugshot: Cruel and Unusual Style

The mugshot (and especially the celebrity mugshot) has become such a canonized aspect of the American consciousness that, at least to me, it transcends both originality and cliche. What I mean by that is: Mugshots are instantly recognizable and in a sense, unoriginal – however, they remain stylized in such a way that the viewer’s instant recognition classicizes the mugshot aesthetic. (Really, the same goes for anything “classic,” and I use that term tightly, as it seems to have been applied pretty loosely to things in the past). Anyway, I feel like featuring my favorite mugshots is an easy road to take, but a necessary one nonetheless.

So, once one acknowledges these preconceptions, I think mugshots can be a fascinating window into an individual’s naked personality. They reveal people at their most vulnerable – and it’s interesting to interpret how composed/distraught/stylish/smug/embarrassed/empowered/coy a person truly is at a given moment, (that is, if you subscribe to the theory of mugshots as a vehicle of personality deconstruction). To that end, here is a sampling of my favorite mugshots (celebrity, stylish and unknown, hat-adorned, and full body – none of which are mutually exclusive) that I’ve culled from the internet over the past few weeks.

Celebrity:

emmagoldmanmugshotEmma Goldman

PD*29499642Jerry Rosenberg

BE047388Malcolm X

McQueenSteveSteve McQueen

Unknowns:

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Hats:

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Full Body:

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Also, check out some of the new campaign photos for Levi’s, which feature some penetentary-themed shots (though not shot very well, in my opinion). Via DR&DR.

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The Great Debate: Tart Arnels vs. Moscot Lemtoshes

In honor of my recent eBay purchase, I have to write a few words on the debate (though, there isn’t really a debate) between Tart Arnels and Moscot Lemtoshes – the oft confused styles.

First, here is a view of each:

Tart Arnel.

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Moscot Lemtosh.

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At a glance, they appear almost identical. But there are a few key differences that need to be pointed out. Moscot frames have mock trims on the front and sides that are simply glued on, and serve no actual purpose. Tart Arnels use rivets that appear on the front and sides that secure the hinge plates. Modern heat sunken hinges, like those employed by Moscot, have been around since mid sixties and are now used on almost all mass produced frames. However, there are still a few frame makers who carry on using rivet hinges and original trims, such as Opera Opera. Still, nothing compares to an original pair of vintage Tart Arnels. The Amber frames (below) go for about 500 bills on eBay.

Verdict: Tart Arnel.

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The Germinal Wardrobe, Episode I

Sometimes things just come together, but there is always a sartorial derivative when it comes to putting together an outfit. The aim of this feature is to document such events. Vain? Absolutely.

Lately, I’ve been kind of obsessed with John Dillinger and the wild outlaws of the early thirties (despite the deep disappointment I felt after watching the insultingly bad Public Enemies). Naturally, a major way in which my interests manifest is through clothing. So behold, Episode 1 of The Germinal Wardrobe.

*Note: The amazing blog Nerd Boyfriend takes this concept and really runs with it. Check it out.

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